The Beach We had to Earn

Hilo Highlights

Before making our way to Green Sand Beach, we stopped at Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach. I was really looking forward to seeing it, but unfortunately, there was construction going on while we were there, so we didn’t get to experience it the way I had hoped. Still, seeing an actual beach covered in black volcanic sand was pretty cool. I just wish we could’ve slowed down, explored a little more, and truly enjoyed it.

Green Sand Beach, though? That was an experience.

There are two ways to get out to Papakōlea Green Sand Beach – you can hike it, or you can pay some of the locals to take you out there in the back of their trucks. And since rucking is our thing, that’s what Kev and I did.

The trek is about 6 miles roundtrip. The trail itself wasn’t technically difficult – there weren’t crazy inclines or some brutal mountain climb. For the most part, it was relatively flat. What made it tough was the sun exposure. There is nowhere to hide from the sun – no trees, no shade. Just you, the trail, the coastline, the wind, and that Hawaii sun beating down on you.

And because Kev and I apparently like to make things harder for ourselves, we went midday. Once we committed, though, we committed. There was no turning around. We just kept rucking.

If you’re planning on hiking out there, come prepared. Go early, bring a hat, sunscreen, plenty of water, snacks, and a lightweight long-sleeve shirt or sun-protective layer. Do not underestimate the sun just because the trail looks flat and easy. That open exposure for several miles can wear you down quickly, especially during the middle of the day.

But then you finally get there. After miles of walking through this dry, rugged, almost barren landscape, you suddenly reach the edge above this little crescent-shaped beach tucked into the side of an old volcanic cinder cone, looking down at sand that is actually green. It feels completely out of place, and that’s what makes this place incredible.

I had never seen anything like it.

The green color comes from olivine, a mineral found in the volcanic rock surrounding the beach. As the old cinder cone slowly erodes, olivine crystals are released and collect along the shoreline. Olivine is heavier and denser than other volcanic materials, so it tends to remain behind as the lighter material gets carried away by the ocean. That’s what gives Papakōlea its unusual olive-green color. It’s one of those places where pictures don’t quite prepare you for seeing it with your own eyes.

Was the ruck tough? Yes.Would I do it again? Absolutely. But next time, I’m riding in that damn truck! Not because I regret hiking it. I’m really glad Kev and I rucked it together. That’s part of the memory for me. We definitely earned that first view of Green Sand Beach one sweaty, sun-beaten mile at a time.

But now that we’ve done it on foot, I’d love to experience riding in the back of one of those trucks, bouncing along those rugged dirt roads with the coastline beside us. It looked like an adventure all on its own.

So if you go, you have options. If you’re up for the miles, prepared for the sun, and want to make the journey part of the experience, hike it. Take your time, bring enough water, protect yourself from the sun, and enjoy the fact that you’re walking through one of the most unique landscapes on the Big Island.

And if hiking 6 exposed miles isn’t your idea of a Hawaiian vacation, take the truck. Either way, Green Sand Beach is one place we’re glad we didn’t skip.